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Except here, the nerds were the ones calling the shots, and while some came off as nebbishy or extremely introverted when not cloaked by a username and avatar, many members were quick to eviscerate the uninitiated who tried to jump in on their conversations without doing their homework—namely, reading the forum and picking up its nuances for weeks or months prior to deciding that they finally had something worthwhile to say.
While there was definitely talk of streetwear brands like Supreme, Stussy, and FUCT—along with occasional references to designer labels ranging from Rick Owens to Band of Outsiders—what really became popular on the boards was raw, selvedge denim.
When the Americana movement began to gain steam in the mids, more and more guys started to embrace the idea of breaking in a pair of unwashed jeans, but these picky customers needed something much better than the Swedish company Nudie or French label A.
These artisan labels offered far superior denim, construction, and were much, much harder to obtain—which made them all that much cooler. These newly-born denimheads sought to learn as much as they could about the fabric—which mills produced the best denim, dying processes, types of stitching, down to the significance of the embroidery on the back pockets.
In terms of sheer information and knowledge, forums still trumped these fledgling menswear blogs. Forums also offered a thriving secondhand market. Members like Kiya Babzani established Supertalk as a mecca of denim knowledge in the mids.
We were all waiting for it to arrive. Pics would get posted, sizing advice could be shared first-hand from a fellow fucking nerd, and not from some dude trying to force a sale.
As founder Wayne Berkowitz explains: We didn't treat it as seriously as some of the members did. The members on Supertalk exploited it and turned it into as rampant popularity system and we really lost control of it.
On site, sellers and downloaders rely on feedback to vet whether or not a business is legitimate, or if a potential downloader has a history of not paying. An incorrect or ignorant post about jeans, rap, or anything really, was fair grounds for negrepping, while detailed, informative posts on jeans, fit details on obscure Japanese brands, and reviews of recently opened stores could net members positive rep.
People with no rep had no bar at all. I thought it was fair because there was no restriction on what posts you were allowed to rep. Eric Heins, founder of Corter Leather , definitely looked at rep when considering making a download from a stranger on the forum, but not so much when it came to taking advice.
He makes a variety of leather goods by hand: Being a design major, he picked up the basics from online tutorials.
Plenty of members also wanted to score a deal on secondhand designer gear—people like Ryan Willms. With his meticulously-groomed sidepart, he looks like every other menswear blogger of today. Willms is decked out in a navy blazer, chambray shirt, and flannel bowtie.
He is turning various ways in front of the camera for director Jake Davis , adjusting the artfully-rolled cuffs on his indigo-dyed selvedge jeans, a pop of fair isle socks separating them from a pair of burnished brogues. The video was uploaded on January 27, One of the earlier menswear blogs, Willms launched h y r collective in the spring of as a way of highlighting certain items he liked. At the time, sites like A Continuous Lean and Valet were barely a year old.
You can download anything, anywhere now. That kind of ruined it, but what are you going to do, fight the Internet? I think the Internet sped up the trend process By this time, graphic tees and limited-edition sneakers were starting to get overlooked in favor of hard-wearing jeans and sought-after cult brands like Nom de Guerre, Engineered Garments, and Yuketen. Men like Willms regularly looked at Supertalk and StyleForum for lookbooks, interviews and product shots.
Willms was not, however, logging in for style advice. I do feel that for the most part, there were a lot of uneducated folks passing themselves off as an authority. In , Willms met Fashion Director Simon Roe, and the two decided that h y r collective needed to be rebranded.
They also decided to go into print. Inside the pages, brands like Engineered Garments, Nom de Guerre, and Duluth Pack were given shine in a way they had never before seen in North America. Yet, these were the sorts of cult brands that had been buzzed about on forums already for months.
Now, the guy in Austin or wherever knows about this brand. It had nothing to do with advertising or a blogger or a magazine. Willms begs to differ. It is interesting because it didn't exist years ago as it does now, and it does have a certain amount of downloading power and influence on some retailers. Vitiligo is an important skin disease having a major impact on the quality of life of the patient In this article, we review vitiligo as a whole, including epidemiol-.
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Please PM me! Going there in a month with my girl. I'd appreciate it. Anyone got the Tokyo one that they could help me out with please? PM if you can. I'm looking for Berlin guide, anyone can send me please? If anyone could share the London and Berlin guides I'd be super grateful.
Could really use the London guide. Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help. Going to Paris in a couple of days.